3D Printing Info Dump

Just a place to dump info before I categorize them.

General

• Bambulab Studio. bambu lab doesn't have an automatic import of different why axis: how do you properly import obj in bambu lab? it is somewhat in a different axis. z up axis instead of y up axis you need to switch axis when you export it in DCC.

• in bambu lab studio press F for the lay on face tool

• light indicator of red, green, blue in the machine maybe if its okay or not

• You can skip failed parts mid-print to save the rest of the plate.

• the print takes too much time of print by layer or print by object

• don't cheap out on small items: Infill Percentage: Keychains are so small that you should actually print them at 100% solid infill or high wall counts. It only adds a fraction of a gram per piece, but it keeps the tiny keyring loop from snapping off in someone's pocket.

• canceling takes time.

• One important rule before you flip the switch: Wait for the hotend cooling fan to turn off. After a print finishes, the printer keeps the fan running for a few minutes until the nozzle cools down below 50°C, else you get a nasty clog from heat creep.

• Pro-tip: If the Benchy is stuck, do not use a metal scraper on the PEI plate, as it will ruin the texture. Just gently flex the steel plate slightly, and the print should release with a satisfying "pop."

• cancelling takes sometime

• Smoothing the top. Use Cura Ironing.

• filament scarf seam settings

• Slicer Settings

• Retraction

• You have to step past the basics and tweak specific slicer settings, like dialing up the number of perimeters (walls) instead of just cranking infill to get structural strength for things like carabiners.

• Relying on default profiles won't cut it for load-bearing or complex parts.

• Other models force you to learn continuous spiral vase mode, variable layer heights, and pausing for mid-print color changes.

• Limit Testing:

  • E Steps? A lot of functional models masquerade as simple household items but are actually brutal torture tests for your printer's mechanics. Things like tight screw threads or print-in-place hinges demand precise dimensional accuracy and dialed-in E-steps so you aren't over or under-extruding. Tall, thin parts push your belt tension to the limit and quickly expose Z-wobble.

• Watch the Bottom Edges: Be careful with models that have filleted (rounded) bottom edges instead of 45-degree chamfers. They require intense cooling on the lower layers, which easily causes warping off the bed. Use brims if the surface area is small.

• temperature check. different per material.

Coloring

• The Fill tool works like a paint-by-numbers bucket. For intricate details or inset text, ensure "Edge detection" is toggled on so colors don't bleed across facets.
• The paint tools in Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer are powerful but can lead to massive filament waste and extended print times if not understood. Before starting, always set the dominant color as your entire base model color (ideally as color slot 4 for easy keyboard shortcuts) to give yourself a clean canvas.

To Print

• THIS. Print a Bowden tube removal tool
• Custom trash cans
• hanging compost bins
• shelf brackets
• pickleball. pegboard holder
• can also print lens hood
• 3d bookmarks
• eyemoving ball
• ruler with mark 3d print
• bag strap organizer.
• crocs jibbits design. 3d print
• egg sorter create DIY
• hair clips that you can add 3d print
• THIS digital scoreboard
• Zip puller.
• clogs chicken
• paint a pickleball to be a pokemon. pickleball ball. color
• Auto-loading battery dispenser, EDC key organizer, Soldering iron insert press, Gridfinity bins.
• phone camera stands
• mechanical mouse
• https://www.printables.com/
• https://jlc3dp.com/blog/3d-printing-tools

a1 mini

A1 Mini Limitation

• (Note: You have to feed TPU from a separate spool holder; it is too soft to run through the AMS Lite).
• i dont print with the handy lab. app. i print using desktop.
• This is where the A1 Mini hits its ceiling. Because its heated bed maxes out at 80°C and it has an open-frame design (no enclosure to trap ambient heat), you cannot reliably print engineering-grade plastics: ABS and ASA: These warp heavily if exposed to a draft or cool room air. They require a bed temperature of 90°C–110°C and an enclosed chamber to stay flat. They also produce toxic fumes that shouldn't be breathed in an open room. Nylon (PA) and Polycarbonate (PC): These materials require extreme ambient heat to prevent layers from separating and splitting apart mid-print.
• Out of the box, the A1 Mini comes with a Stainless Steel nozzle. This steel is too soft for abrasive materials. If you buy the optional Hardened Steel nozzle ($11–$13), you unlock: PLA-CF / PETG-CF (Carbon Fiber Infused): The hardened nozzle can handle the rough carbon particles without wearing down, allowing you to print textured, stiff matte parts.
• A1 Mini Acceleration. Despite the difference in acceleration, the gap in real-world printing time is remarkably small for two big reasons. Volumetric Flow Limits: Your printing speed isn't actually limited by how fast the toolhead can move; it’s limited by how fast the hotend can melt plastic.

multicolor. just cut it. haha no need to load and unload.

single color and just small prints. a1 mini is more than enough. i think it would be just too lacking if you print a lot by batch but for personal use. more than enough.

still get auto bed leveling. wifi.

you can still multi print though you have slots just load nad unload the filament.

doing multi printing uses more waste and time anyway, unless you have a multi tool 3d printer like u1 snapmaker

its is also most fast. just the bed slinger a bit hard since it has to mve physically so taller objects will be problematic. that said never eally printed tall objecs and if it has i they are broken down in parts.

Visible Lines on 3D Print

• actually ok lang yan.. to answer naman bakit di smooth, sa settings lang po... pero ganun po tlaga ang FDM... visible po tlaga lines

• It woud like asking my car is emitting smoke when you are using a fuel based car instead of the EV car

• Some Tools

• Invest in reusable desiccant beads and print an AMS enclosure to lock humidity away from your filament.

split/joining parts

• You can join split parts using CA glue, epoxy, heat-set inserts with screws, or interlocking joints like dovetails. Angling at 45 degrees is a great trick when you must print something as a single solid piece, but splitting it apart is usually the superior engineering solution.

Filament Materials

• Abrasive filaments require specialized hardware, and the vast majority of first-layer failures are caused by improper bed adhesion due to invisible residues.

• Upgrade to a diamondbacked or hardened steel nozzle if you plan on printing with abrasive materials like carbon fiber or glass fiber.

• PTFE The standard specification you need to look for is 4mm outer diameter (OD) and 2.5mm inner diameter (ID).

• updated presets: presets mas updated: https://presets.polymaker.com/

• Use filament profiles: filament profiles: https://wiki.polymaker.com/polymaker-products/printer-profiles/legacy-profiles-by-material/pla/panchroma-tm-matte

• different material. different bed

• Using PLA makes you less guilty because it is bioplastic. derived from cornstarch or sugarcane and breaks down under industrial composting conditions

• PLA is fine for display pieces, but functional prints for outdoors or high-friction jobs require stepping up to PETG, ASA, Nylon, or flexible TPU. Handling these materials means you have to get serious about dehydrating your filament. Hygroscopic materials like TPU absorb moisture fast, which destroys your retractions and causes massive stringing.

• PLA handles over 90% of standard projects. It requires no enclosure, adheres well to a clean bed, and offers the widest variety of finishes. However, PLA deforms easily in heat and degrades under UV exposure. PETG bridges this gap by handling higher temperatures and weathering much better.

• TIL pla is not dishwasher proof

• Marketing claims about "high-speed" filaments are often moot because a standard printer's nozzle limits the volume of plastic that can physically melt per second.

• Insight: Moisture is the silent killer of prints, especially PETG. Action Point: Invest in a dedicated filament dryer. Do not trust vacuum-sealed factory filament to be dry right out of the box.

• Adjust Slicer Settings First: Before resorting to ABS or ASA for mechanical parts, try printing PLA with 3-4 perimeters, 40% infill, higher temperatures, and slower speeds to maximize layer adhesion and strength.

• PETG temp

  • Temperatures: It needs more heat.
  • You're usually looking at 230-250°C for the nozzle and 70-80°C for the bed.

• PETG prefers to be printed a bit slower to get good flow and adhesion. but usually applies only to the regular PETG. The PETG HS prints almost the same speed as PLA.

• You generally want the part cooling fan turned way down (around 30-50%). Blasting it with air like you would with PLA will ruin the layer adhesion and make the part brittle.

• Even when perfectly dry, PETG is a sticky, oozy material. You'll likely need to tweak your retraction distance and speed to fully eliminate stringing.

• Swapping plates

  • but the pei plate needs heating once again?
  • yes but the time it takes is less compared to letting it cool down. -sunlu petg hf matte, checkmate bambu

• retraction test in petg? -restraction test

• PLA is strong but prone to "creep" (deforming under constant stress),

• PLA / PETG 50°C. 4–5 hours. TPU 60°C. 6 hours

• TPU have different rating based on hardness.

  • 95A. The standard hardness for 3D printing—it’s tough, bendable, and feels exactly like a rugged watch strap or a solid rubber bumper. You can even make it softer or stiffer just by changing your infill density in Bambu Studio.

• PETG can be stringy and hydroscopic. But if you have a filament dryer (or active food dehydrator)especially that allows active feeding of the spool, and using an official filament setting from the manufacture, its really not much a problem. Prints just like a PLA. The only caveat is it sticks too much with the plate. So you need a textured one instead of a smooth plate.

• Misconception about a wet filament.

• JUst use PETG Manufacturer Setting:

  • ​Flow ratio: 0.96 ​Max volumetric speed: 6 mm^3/s ​Part cooling fan: ​Min fan speed threshold: 30% ​Max fan speed threshold: 30% ​Layer time (for min): 20 s ​Layer time (for max): 20 s ​Retraction: ​Length: 0.2 mm
  • Under-extrusion (Flow Ratio 0.96): PETG is notorious for being "sticky." It loves to blob up on the nozzle and leave strings. A slightly lower flow ratio reduces the "over-squish" that often causes PETG to build up on the nozzle tip and create those annoying little burned globs that get dragged into your print.
  • Reduced Cooling: Unlike PLA, which needs 100% cooling to lock in sharp details, PETG requires strong inter-layer bonding. If you blast it with too much cold air, the layers won't fuse properly, leading to a weak, brittle print. 30–50% is generally the sweet spot for the balance between structural strength and preventing "saggy" overhangs.
  • Volumetric Speed Limitation: This is a fantastic "secret" for consistency. PETG has higher viscosity than PLA. If you try to push it through the nozzle too fast, the extruder will struggle, causing inconsistent extrusion or clicking. Limiting the speed ensures the hotend can keep up with the melting rate.
  • Reduced Retraction: Because PETG is stringy, many people think, "I need to increase retraction!" This is often wrong. PETG is soft and gooey; high retraction distances can actually pull molten plastic into the "cold zone" of your heat break, causing clogs. A shorter, faster retraction is generally better
  1. Temperature (The #1 variable): Even within the same brand, different colors (especially matte vs. glossy) and batches can have different melt requirements. Always run a Temperature Tower for any new spool.

2. The "Sticky" Factor: PETG sticks too well to some beds (especially smooth PEI). If you find your prints are pulling chunks of your build plate off, use a glue stick as a "release agent" (not an adhesive).

• If you get stringing: Don't increase retraction distance first; try lowering your print temperature by 5°C or increasing your travel speed (movement speed).
• If your parts are brittle: Reduce your cooling fan speed further or increase the print temperature.

• Another PTFE Tube for Multiple Color.

  • Have the PTFE Tube cut on a straight line not diaognially
  • When you insert the new tube into the pneumatic fittings (on the extruder or the AMS Lite), push it in firmly until it bottoms out. Then, give it a very slight tug to ensure the internal "teeth" of the fitting have grabbed the tubing properly.

• You cant feet the filament directly to the toolhead. You need a PTFE Tube.

• Disclaimer: One final note: If you ever notice the fitting itself (the black connector that holds the tube) failing to grip or releasing the tube constantly, that is when you should look at buying a new pneumatic fitting rather than a new tube. Those are also cheap, generic parts, but they are separate from the PTFE tubing itself.

• Buy a highquality one. Don't cheap it out. PTFE Tube are specialized tube that have a higher threshold and consistent clearance. Cheaper PTFE Tube might give you inconsistent result.

• TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane). Prints at a lower speed.

• eSun Dryer

  • The unit successfully reduced internal humidity from 60% to approximately 35% within just 30 minutes of operation. It maintains a stable temperature without overheating, and the internal fan ensures uniform drying, eliminating the need to manually rotate the spool. The design features two PTFE tube outlets on the lid, which allow you to feed filament directly from the dryer into your printer's extruder while it is actively drying

• Linkhaven

• 3d print force.com

• nvidia kimodo,

• tencent hy motion 1.0

• cascadeur

• https://www.hi3d.ai/. hitem3d

• https://www.thingiverse.com/

• https://learn.adafruit.com

• create flexi: https://maker.yotown.com/crafting?utm_source=reddit

• https://www.top3d.ai https://www.printables.com/ https://modddif.com/ sparc3d https://gridfinity.ftdesign.at/

• https://hackaday.com/

• Thingiverse: The oldest and largest repository of free 3D printable files. While its interface can sometimes feel dated compared to Printables, its sheer volume of historical community uploads is unmatched. Thangs: A powerful 3D search engine. It indexes models from all over the web (including Printables and Thingiverse) and features a unique geometric search that lets you upload a 3D model to find physically similar designs. Cults3D & MyMiniFactory: These lean heavily into the designer ecosystem. Cults3D is highly popular for artistic prints, cosplay gear, and independent functional designs, offering a mix of free and paid files. MyMiniFactory focuses heavily on high-quality tabletop miniatures and sculpted figures.

Thingiverse Customizer: A classic browser tool powered by OpenSCAD. It allows creators to upload code-based designs that anyone can customize using text fields and sliders (e.g., custom gear generators, box dimensions, or text embossing). ItsLitho / Lithophane Maker: Specialized generators that turn standard 2D photos into 3D printable "lithophanes" (sculptures that reveal a detailed grayscale image when back-lit by an LED or window). LuBan 3D: A specialized software generator used to slice massive 3D models into smaller interlocking puzzle pieces, or generate complex glueless sliceform/wireframe structures out of solid meshes.

** bridging** You need to also take an account your bridging settings. Slow down the prints for bridges to 10 mm a second

You should put .2 on your top surface for support makes removing supports a billion times easier I tried 0.2 and still had a hard time. 0.24 comes off easy. Its very satisfying to remove supports now.

painting

• You can easely spraypaint 3D printed parts. but a few steps are required when painting. degrease and clean. use primer paint. use spraypaint with colours. use a UV protective finish spray. And ofcourse depending on your 3D printing results. sanding. lots and lots of sanding!
• Rustolium fusion. Pla and pla+ work very good with it
• miniature painting is the keyword:
• Depends on the look you are going for, a white base will make colors pop and be more vibrant, but if you want an older more withern look go with dark colors to mute the colors a little and appear more dingy
• You will want to use a primer on the model, before applying paints. So really makes no difference what colour the filament is. White primer will usually require less coats for the colours to pop, the disadvantage with white primer is that any areas where you can not get too with a brush/pen will stand out like a sore thumb. I favour black primer for figures, as any spots your brush can’t reach would typically be in shadow anyway. Highly recommend watching some tutorials on YouTube for miniature painting, understanding even just a couple of techniques before stating a project will do your confidence the world of good.
• https://learn.adafruit.com/hydro-dip-3d-prints?view=all
• problem with petg, stringing, under extrusion, adhesion issues.
• printing temperature tower in petg
• zhop type
• petg and pla do not stick to each other. it matters for multi printing with support. normally if they are the same type, you will have a hard time separating the support with the main printing. if they are different, they can easily be separated. hard time doesn't only mean it takes time but it also leaves a nasty artifact.
• Rule A: Use "Matte" or "Opaque" Colors for the Base Always look for paints labeled Matte or Opaque. Plastic has a natural glare. If you use glossy paint over a 3D print, the shiny reflections will highlight every single layer line and minor flaw on the surface. Matte paints absorb light, hiding layer lines and making the surface look flat, injection-molded, and professional. Rule B: Match Your Primer Color to Your Final Design The color of your primer spray changes how hard it is to paint the top coats: Grey Primer (The All-Rounder): If your design uses bright, varied colors (reds, blues, greens, yellows), use a neutral grey primer. It doesn't alter the tint of the paint you put on top of it. Black Primer (For Shadows & Dark Themes): If you are painting a robotic piece, a dark figurine, or something metallic, use black primer. If you miss a tiny corner with your brush, it just looks like a natural shadow instead of raw plastic showing through. White Primer (For Neon / Ultra-Brights): Yellow, orange, and white paints have very poor hiding power (they are translucent). Putting yellow over a black base requires 10 coats. Putting it over a white base pops instantly in 1 or 2 coats. The Workflow Cheat Sheet Sand: Give the plastic a quick rub with 400-grit sandpaper to smooth out lines. Prime: Spray a light, even coat of grey primer. Let it dry for 30 minutes. Paint: Apply your matte acrylic colors. (Tip: Thin your paint with a tiny drop of water—two thin coats look much smoother than one thick, gloppy coat). Seal: Spray a clear matte topcoat to protect your hard work.

3dgs

• world labs marble
• hunyuan world 2.0
• genie 3
• phone-scan UE5 route

Maintenance/Print Quality Diagnostics

• Calibration is Your Foundation Before tackling massive multi-day prints, you need a baseline test to prove your machine reads G-code properly and handles basic overhangs and layer lines.

cold pull under extrusion calibration over extrusion calibration

• PID What? Want to know how to perform a PID tune?
• loose belts what is the problem result?
• When encountering severe horizontal lines (wobbly, irregular layers) on a 3D print, the root cause might be misdiagnosed as wet filament, temperature fluctuation, or loose belts. If identical layer patterns appear on consecutive prints, the issue is mechanical, not sensor-related or environmental.
• clog check . nozzle. bed adhesion. (is there a litmus test for bed adhesion?)
• Loosen the Z-Nuts: Check the brass nuts on your Z-axis lead screws (the vertical threaded rods). Use an Allen key to loosen the mounting bolts just enough so the nuts can wiggle slightly side-to-side. Do not tighten them down.
• Lubricate the Lead Screws: Clean your Z-axis rods and apply a suitable lubricant (like lithium grease or PTFE lubricant). Dry rods exacerbate binding issues. Rule Out Temperature First: If you suspect temperature fluctuations are causing layer lines, run a PID tuning for both your nozzle and heated bed to ensure stable heating.
• Print bed cleaning - on top of dawn and using a clean paper towel you may consider using rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab on the bed.

Insight: When parts look perfectly printed but fail to fit together mechanically (like a bearing into a housing), the culprit is material shrinkage caused by cooling, not printer inaccuracy.

Instead of manually scaling up individual models by 1-2%, print a calibration block, measure it with calipers, and enter the precise shrinkage compensation value into your slicer. This permanently fixes the issue for that specific material. That's the catch. Only for that material.

Clean your print head - after one messed up print there maybe some stuck causing other things to get touched while printing.

Edges - because you are pri prison the outside of the bed consider setting the bed temperature up 5° so the edges get warm enough.

Pre heat the bed - consider turning your bed on for 20-25 min at your print temperature so when the print starts the edges are already warm and filiment will adhere.

Too tight nuts?

Irregular layer lines from bottom to top are often caused by "Z binding," not just Z-wobble. This happens when the lead screw nuts (the brass fittings the threaded rods go through to lift the X-gantry) are fastened too tightly to the gantry. These nuts are explicitly designed to have sideways play to compensate for slight bends in the lead screws.

extruder calibration: Run an Extruder Calibration: Before trying high-tolerance mechanical prints like tablet stands or under-desk cup holders, calibrate your E-steps and pressure advance so parts actually fit together.

e-steps.

Common Mistakes:

• Insight: Touching the build plate ruins adhesion. Action Point: Never touch the top surface of the build plate. If adhesion fails, wash the plate thoroughly with standard dish detergent (like Fairy), scrub it, and let it air dry without touching the surface.

• Insight: Removing prints while the plate is hot causes permanent warping. Specially evident in long parts. Action Point: Let the PEI plate cool completely before removing parts. To speed this up, take the flexible plate off the magnetic bed to allow airflow underneath, or point a small desk fan directly at it.