Ben Traje
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3D Printing Info Dump

19 Jun 26 (4d ago)

Just a place to dump info before I categorize them.

General

  • Bambulab Studio. bambu lab doesn't have an automatic import of different why axis: how do you properly import obj in bambu lab? it is somewhat in a different axis. z up axis instead of y up axis you need to switch axis when you export it in DCC.
  • in bambu lab studio press F for the lay on face tool
  • light indicator of red, green, blue in the machine maybe if its okay or not
  • You can skip failed parts mid-print to save the rest of the plate.
  • the print takes too much time of print by layer or print by object

Slicer Settings

  • Retraction
  • You have to step past the basics and tweak specific slicer settings, like dialing up the number of perimeters (walls) instead of just cranking infill to get structural strength for things like carabiners.
  • Relying on default profiles won't cut it for load-bearing or complex parts.
  • Other models force you to learn continuous spiral vase mode, variable layer heights, and pausing for mid-print color changes.
  • Limit Testing:
    • E Steps? A lot of functional models masquerade as simple household items but are actually brutal torture tests for your printer's mechanics. Things like tight screw threads or print-in-place hinges demand precise dimensional accuracy and dialed-in E-steps so you aren't over or under-extruding. Tall, thin parts push your belt tension to the limit and quickly expose Z-wobble.
  • Watch the Bottom Edges: Be careful with models that have filleted (rounded) bottom edges instead of 45-degree chamfers. They require intense cooling on the lower layers, which easily causes warping off the bed. Use brims if the surface area is small.
  • temperature check. different per material.

Coloring

  • The Fill tool works like a paint-by-numbers bucket. For intricate details or inset text, ensure "Edge detection" is toggled on so colors don't bleed across facets.
  • The paint tools in Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer are powerful but can lead to massive filament waste and extended print times if not understood. Before starting, always set the dominant color as your entire base model color (ideally as color slot 4 for easy keyboard shortcuts) to give yourself a clean canvas.

To Print

  • THIS. Print a Bowden tube removal tool
  • Custom trash cans
  • hanging compost bins
  • shelf brackets
  • pickleball. pegboard holder
  • can also print lens hood
  • 3d bookmarks
  • eyemoving ball
  • ruler with mark 3d print
  • bag strap organizer.
  • crocs jibbits design. 3d print
  • egg sorter create DIY
  • hair clips that you can add 3d print
  • THIS digital scoreboard
  • Zip puller.
  • clogs chicken
  • paint a pickleball to be a pokemon. pickleball ball. color
  • Auto-loading battery dispenser, EDC key organizer, Soldering iron insert press, Gridfinity bins.
  • phone camera stands
  • mechanical mouse
  • https://www.printables.com/
  • https://jlc3dp.com/blog/3d-printing-tools

Visible Lines on 3D Print

  • actually ok lang yan.. to answer naman bakit di smooth, sa settings lang po... pero ganun po tlaga ang FDM... visible po tlaga lines
  • It woud like asking my car is emitting smoke when you are using a fuel based car instead of the EV car

Some Tools

  • Invest in reusable desiccant beads and print an AMS enclosure to lock humidity away from your filament.

split/joining parts

  • You can join split parts using CA glue, epoxy, heat-set inserts with screws, or interlocking joints like dovetails. Angling at 45 degrees is a great trick when you must print something as a single solid piece, but splitting it apart is usually the superior engineering solution.

Filament Materials

  • different material. different bed

  • PLA is fine for display pieces, but functional prints for outdoors or high-friction jobs require stepping up to PETG, ASA, Nylon, or flexible TPU. Handling these materials means you have to get serious about dehydrating your filament. Hygroscopic materials like TPU absorb moisture fast, which destroys your retractions and causes massive stringing.

  • PLA handles over 90% of standard projects. It requires no enclosure, adheres well to a clean bed, and offers the widest variety of finishes. However, PLA deforms easily in heat and degrades under UV exposure. PETG bridges this gap by handling higher temperatures and weathering much better.

  • TIL pla is not dishwasher proof

  • Marketing claims about "high-speed" filaments are often moot because a standard printer's nozzle limits the volume of plastic that can physically melt per second.

  • Insight: Moisture is the silent killer of prints, especially PETG. Action Point: Invest in a dedicated filament dryer. Do not trust vacuum-sealed factory filament to be dry right out of the box.

  • Adjust Slicer Settings First: Before resorting to ABS or ASA for mechanical parts, try printing PLA with 3-4 perimeters, 40% infill, higher temperatures, and slower speeds to maximize layer adhesion and strength.

  • PETG is 240 - 245C

  • retraction test in petg? -restraction test

  • PLA is strong but prone to "creep" (deforming under constant stress),

  • PLA / PETG 50°C. 4–5 hours. TPU 60°C. 6 hours

  • eSun Dryer

    • The unit successfully reduced internal humidity from 60% to approximately 35% within just 30 minutes of operation. It maintains a stable temperature without overheating, and the internal fan ensures uniform drying, eliminating the need to manually rotate the spool. The design features two PTFE tube outlets on the lid, which allow you to feed filament directly from the dryer into your printer's extruder while it is actively drying

Linkhaven

painting

  • You can easely spraypaint 3D printed parts. but a few steps are required when painting. degrease and clean. use primer paint. use spraypaint with colours. use a UV protective finish spray. And ofcourse depending on your 3D printing results. sanding. lots and lots of sanding!
  • Rustolium fusion. Pla and pla+ work very good with it
  • miniature painting is the keyword:
  • Depends on the look you are going for, a white base will make colors pop and be more vibrant, but if you want an older more withern look go with dark colors to mute the colors a little and appear more dingy
  • You will want to use a primer on the model, before applying paints. So really makes no difference what colour the filament is. White primer will usually require less coats for the colours to pop, the disadvantage with white primer is that any areas where you can not get too with a brush/pen will stand out like a sore thumb. I favour black primer for figures, as any spots your brush can’t reach would typically be in shadow anyway. Highly recommend watching some tutorials on YouTube for miniature painting, understanding even just a couple of techniques before stating a project will do your confidence the world of good.
  • https://learn.adafruit.com/hydro-dip-3d-prints?view=all
  • problem with petg, stringing, under extrusion, adhesion issues.
  • printing temperature tower in petg
  • zhop type
  • petg and pla do not stick to each other. it matters for multi printing with support. normally if they are the same type, you will have a hard time separating the support with the main printing. if they are different, they can easily be separated. hard time doesn't only mean it takes time but it also leaves a nasty artifact.

3dgs

  • world labs marble
  • hunyuan world 2.0
  • genie 3
  • phone-scan UE5 route

Maintenance/Print Quality Diagnostics

  • Calibration is Your Foundation Before tackling massive multi-day prints, you need a baseline test to prove your machine reads G-code properly and handles basic overhangs and layer lines.

  • PID What? Want to know how to perform a PID tune?

  • loose belts what is the problem result?

  • When encountering severe horizontal lines (wobbly, irregular layers) on a 3D print, the root cause might be misdiagnosed as wet filament, temperature fluctuation, or loose belts. If identical layer patterns appear on consecutive prints, the issue is mechanical, not sensor-related or environmental.

  • clog check . nozzle. bed adhesion. (is there a litmus test for bed adhesion?)

  • Loosen the Z-Nuts: Check the brass nuts on your Z-axis lead screws (the vertical threaded rods). Use an Allen key to loosen the mounting bolts just enough so the nuts can wiggle slightly side-to-side. Do not tighten them down.

  • Lubricate the Lead Screws: Clean your Z-axis rods and apply a suitable lubricant (like lithium grease or PTFE lubricant). Dry rods exacerbate binding issues. Rule Out Temperature First: If you suspect temperature fluctuations are causing layer lines, run a PID tuning for both your nozzle and heated bed to ensure stable heating.

  • Print bed cleaning - on top of dawn and using a clean paper towel you may consider using rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab on the bed.

Clean your print head - after one messed up print there maybe some stuck causing other things to get touched while printing.

Edges - because you are pri prison the outside of the bed consider setting the bed temperature up 5° so the edges get warm enough.

Pre heat the bed - consider turning your bed on for 20-25 min at your print temperature so when the print starts the edges are already warm and filiment will adhere.

Too tight nuts?

Irregular layer lines from bottom to top are often caused by "Z binding," not just Z-wobble. This happens when the lead screw nuts (the brass fittings the threaded rods go through to lift the X-gantry) are fastened too tightly to the gantry. These nuts are explicitly designed to have sideways play to compensate for slight bends in the lead screws.

extruder calibration: Run an Extruder Calibration: Before trying high-tolerance mechanical prints like tablet stands or under-desk cup holders, calibrate your E-steps and pressure advance so parts actually fit together.

e-steps.

Common Mistakes:

  • Insight: Touching the build plate ruins adhesion. Action Point: Never touch the top surface of the build plate. If adhesion fails, wash the plate thoroughly with standard dish detergent (like Fairy), scrub it, and let it air dry without touching the surface.

  • Insight: Removing prints while the plate is hot causes permanent warping. Specially evident in long parts. Action Point: Let the PEI plate cool completely before removing parts. To speed this up, take the flexible plate off the magnetic bed to allow airflow underneath, or point a small desk fan directly at it.