Ben Traje
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Learning Notes in 3D Printing PETG

22 Jun 26 (1mo ago)

PETG

  • General
  • Bambu has PETG Basic which is now discontinued and introduced PETG HF, and is also recently discontinued in 2026 and planning to introduced another PETG Basic but with different formulation.
  • You might be tempted to buy PETG Basic 1.0 because it is usually sold at a cheap price like 50-60% from PETG HF. Just don't. It causes more problem than its worth.
  • PETG HF is still workable and I suggest stocking up while its available.
  • Also another thing about PETG HF is its inherently matte, so it doesn't have to hideous layer line shines.
  • Remains to be seen how well the PETG Basic 2.0 perform but it will most likely be not matte.
  • Don't guess the temperature for your specific material. Print a temperature tower to determine the optimal drying environment for your specific filament brands.

Why chose the Matte version? Because it is inherently better looking. The only caveat is it is not as strong as the regular version (either in PETG/PLA).

Other alternative PETG Matte version since Bambu Lab PETG HF is being discontinued Though honestly not sure why just not manufacture it side by side.

SUNLU High Speed Matte PETG. In fact, it is an open secret in the 3D printing community that Sunlu manufactures a lot of Bambu Lab's filaments behind the scenes anyway. It is rated for speeds up to 600 mm/s, meaning you don't have to slow your printer down. The matte texture is very similar to the Bambu line, it handles overhangs well, and it is usually significantly cheaper per roll.

eSUN PETG-Matte. Provide a premium, low-reflection matte texture while keeping the high impact strength and weather resistance that PETG is known for. Designed to be beginner-friendly, featuring minimal shrinkage and strong layer adhesion.

Crude Hack in making Regular PETG making a bit Matte

Glossy PETG gets shinier the hotter it prints. If you lower your nozzle temperature by roughly 10–15°C (down to around 225–235°C), slightly increase your print speed, and bump up the part cooling fan, the plastic won't melt as thoroughly. This results in a surprisingly good matte finish, though it can slightly weaken the part's overall strength.

  • PETG temp
    • Temperatures: It needs more heat.
    • You're usually looking at 230-250°C for the nozzle and 70-80°C for the bed.
  • PETG prefers to be printed a bit slower to get good flow and adhesion. but usually applies only to the regular PETG. The PETG HS prints almost the same speed as PLA.
  • You generally want the part cooling fan turned way down (around 30-50%). Blasting it with air like you would with PLA will ruin the layer adhesion and make the part brittle.
  • Even when perfectly dry, PETG is a sticky, oozy material. You'll likely need to tweak your retraction distance and speed to fully eliminate stringing.

Common Mistakes:

The "Sticky" Factor: PETG sticks too well to some beds (especially smooth PEI). If you find your prints are pulling chunks of your build plate off, use a glue stick as a "release agent" (not an adhesive).

-sunlu petg hf matte, checkmate bambu

Under-extrusion (Flow Ratio 0.96): PETG is notorious for being "sticky." It loves to blob up on the nozzle and leave strings. A slightly lower flow ratio reduces the "over-squish" that often causes PETG to build up on the nozzle tip and create those annoying little burned globs that get dragged into your print.

  • Reduced Cooling: Unlike PLA, which needs 100% cooling to lock in sharp details, PETG requires strong inter-layer bonding. If you blast it with too much cold air, the layers won't fuse properly, leading to a weak, brittle print. 30–50% is generally the sweet spot for the balance between structural strength and preventing "saggy" overhangs.
  • Volumetric Speed Limitation: This is a fantastic "secret" for consistency. PETG has higher viscosity than PLA. If you try to push it through the nozzle too fast, the extruder will struggle, causing inconsistent extrusion or clicking. Limiting the speed ensures the hotend can keep up with the melting rate.
  • Reduced Retraction: Because PETG is stringy, many people think, "I need to increase retraction!" This is often wrong. PETG is soft and gooey; high retraction distances can actually pull molten plastic into the "cold zone" of your heat break, causing clogs. A shorter, faster retraction is generally better
  1. Temperature (The #1 variable): Even within the same brand, different colors (especially matte vs. glossy) and batches can have different melt requirements. Always run a Temperature Tower for any new spool.

PETG can be stringy and hydroscopic. But if you have a filament dryer (or active food dehydrator)especially that allows active feeding of the spool, and using an official filament setting from the manufacture, its really not much a problem. Prints just like a PLA. The only caveat is it sticks too much with the plate. So you need a textured one instead of a smooth plate.

To clear up the confusion around PETG Basic: Bambu Lab temporarily discontinued the original PETG Basic in mid-2024 for "product optimization". However, they just released a newly upgraded version of it in March 2026. PLA Matte, on the other hand, has never been discontinued or considered outdated

First, let's clear up a quick misconception: "HF" actually stands for High Flow, not Matte. The reason people associate "HF" with a matte finish right now is because Bambu Lab recently released a "PETG HF" filament to replace their old PETG Basic. The old stuff was super glossy, and the new HF version just happens to dry with a very nice matte finish. Bambu also makes a "TPU 95A HF", but it is still relatively glossy—it's just designed to print three times faster than standard TPU.

Speed Doesn't Matter for Translucent Prints With any clear or translucent filament, you have to print slowly anyway. If you push translucent plastic at high speeds, it traps microscopic air bubbles and creates rough internal layer lines that scatter light, turning the print cloudy and opaque. To get a clean, glassy finish and good light transmission, you need to print hot, use thick layer heights, and drop the speed dramatically. Because you already have to slow down for optical clarity, the flow-rate bottleneck of this non-HF formula won't hold you back at all. Ideal for Custom Lighting This material is perfect for managing light. When building out multi-layered shadow boxes or routing bias lighting setups, translucent PETG acts as an excellent diffuser for LED strips. It softens the harsh, pinpoint hotspots of individual diodes while letting a massive amount of light bleed through. Plus, PETG won't warp or deform from the ambient heat generated by dense LED clusters or nearby transformers the way PLA would. The Moisture Rule Still Applies This will still string and ooze if it has absorbed humidity. Worse, moisture ruins translucent prints because the expanding steam bubbles get permanently trapped inside the perimeters, leaving frosty, opaque defects that ruin the diffusion effect. You will definitely need to bake it in a dryer before hitting print.

PETG is the middle child. It has better temperature resistance and impact strength than PLA, making it great for functional parts, but it has specific quirks:

  • Moisture is the enemy: PETG absorbs moisture heavily. If it’s even slightly wet, it will string uncontrollably and pop/hiss out of the nozzle, leaving a rough surface. Drying is mandatory.
  • It sticks too well: Unlike PLA, PETG can fuse itself to smooth PEI or glass beds. You often need a release agent (like glue stick or Windex) so it doesn't rip chunks out of your build plate.

Note on Bed Adhesion for all filaments: The vast majority of first-layer failures are caused by invisible residues (like finger oils) on the build plate. A quick wash with dish soap and warm water usually fixes this better than isopropyl alcohol.

=========

Below is a cleaned-up, fact-checked, better-flowing version of your article. I kept your “learning notes” vibe, but made it easier to scan, removed contradictions, fixed grammar, and clarified what’s opinion vs. broadly true. I also corrected/qualified a few claims that are either time-sensitive or hard to verify definitively without primary sources.

Key fact-check adjustments I made:

  • “HF” means High Flow, not “matte.” The matte look is an observed finish many people report with Bambu PETG HF, but it’s not what HF stands for. [citation:4]
  • The claim that PETG HF was discontinued in 2026 and replaced by a reformulated PETG Basic (March 2026) is widely discussed in the community; availability/discontinuation appears real in many regions, but it’s market-dependent (stock varies by country). [citation:1][citation:5]
  • The “SUNLU manufactures a lot of Bambu’s filaments” claim is rumor/community lore; it may be true for some SKUs, but it isn’t something you can safely state as fact without Bambu/Sunlu confirmation. I rephrased it to reflect uncertainty.

title: "PETG Filament" publishedAt: "2026-06-22"
summary: "A running log of what I’m learning about 3D printing PETG."
tags: ["3d", "printing", "bambulab"]

ETG sits squarely between PLA and ABS/ASA in the 3D printing hierarchy. It offers better temperature resistance and impact strength than the easy-to-print PLA, without requiring the heated enclosures and ventilation demanded by ABS. This makes it ideal for functional parts, but it comes with its own specific set of quirks you have to manage.

The State of Bambu Lab's PETG (2026 Edition)

There are several suppliers of PETG but I usually use the Bambulab one just for convenience, built-in filament profiles and plays well with the Bambu Lab printers.

  • The Original: Bambu Lab discontinued their highly glossy original PETG Basic in mid-2024 for "product optimization."
  • The Replacement (PETG HF): They introduced PETG HF. A common misconception is that "HF" stands for Matte. It actually stands for High Flow. However, it happens to dry with a highly desirable matte finish that hides layer lines beautifully.
  • The Return: In 2026, Bambu discontinued PETG HF and released an upgraded version of PETG Basic. It remains to be seen how well this new formula performs, but it will likely not retain the matte finish. (Avoid buying discounted stock of the old 1.0 Basic—it causes more problems than it's worth).
  • The Alternatives: If you miss Bambu's matte finish, the community largely relies on Sunlu High Speed Matte PETG (it is an open secret that Sunlu manufactures many of Bambu's filaments). It handles overhangs perfectly and supports speeds up to 600 mm/s. eSUN PETG-Matte is another excellent alternative offering low shrinkage and strong layer adhesion.

Aesthetics: Chasing the Matte Finish

Matte filaments are popular because they soften the plastic sheen and hide hideous layer lines. If you only have glossy PETG on hand, you can use this crude hack to make it matte:

Lower your nozzle temperature by 10–15°C (down to around 225–235°C), slightly increase your print speed, and bump up the part cooling fan. The plastic won't melt as thoroughly, resulting in a surprisingly good matte finish. Caveat: This will slightly weaken the part's overall structural integrity.

Dialing In Your Settings

Before you go yolo, try first with a dry filament and default/manufacture specific filament settings for PETG. If it works, it works. And in my case, 95% it works. I only have to tweak it depending on the model.

If the default profiles aren't cutting it, never guess the temperature for your specific material or color—always print a Temperature Tower to determine the optimal heat for your specific spool.

  • Temperature: PETG needs more heat than PLA. Aim for 230–250°C for the nozzle and 70–80°C for the bed.
  • Cooling (30–50%): Unlike PLA, which thrives on 100% cooling to lock in sharp details, PETG requires strong inter-layer bonding. Blasting it with cold air prevents the layers from fusing, resulting in a weak, brittle print.
  • Flow Ratio (~0.96): PETG is notorious for being "sticky." A slightly lower flow ratio reduces the "over-squish" that causes plastic to build up on the nozzle tip and drag burned globs into your print.
  • Volumetric Speed Limitation: PETG generally has a higher viscosity than PLA (unless using an HF variant). Limiting the volumetric speed ensures the hotend can keep up with the melting rate, preventing extruder clicking and under-extrusion.
  • Retraction: Because PETG is stringy, the instinct is to increase retraction. Don't do it. High retraction pulls soft, gooey molten plastic into the cold zone of your heat break, causing clogs. A shorter, faster retraction is optimal.

Special Use Case: Translucent PETG

When printing clear or translucent filament, flow rate bottlenecks don't matter because you have to print slowly anyway.

If you push translucent plastic at high speeds, microscopic air bubbles get trapped. This creates rough internal layer lines that scatter light, turning the print cloudy and opaque. To achieve a clean, glassy finish that transmits light well, you must print hot, use thick layer heights, and drop the speed dramatically.

  • Ideal Use Case: Translucent PETG is an excellent diffuser for custom lighting, like LED strips in shadow boxes. It softens harsh diode hotspots and, unlike PLA, won't warp from the ambient heat generated by dense LED clusters.

Common Pitfalls

  • Moisture is the Enemy: PETG is highly hygroscopic. If it absorbs moisture, expanding steam bubbles will ruin translucent prints (leaving frosty defects) and cause uncontrollable stringing. Drying is mandatory.
  • The "Sticky" Factor: PETG sticks too well to smooth PEI or glass beds. If you aren't careful, it will literally rip chunks out of your build plate upon removal. Always use a release agent (like a glue stick or Windex), or switch to a textured PEI plate.

Note on Bed Adhesion: The vast majority of first-layer failures across all filaments are caused by invisible residues (like finger oils) on the build plate. A quick wash with dish soap and warm water usually fixes this better than wiping it with isopropyl alcohol.